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The high voltage battery pack in an electric vehicle is essentially the equivalent of the engine in a gasoline or diesel-powered vehicle. In a non-electric vehicle, the engine burns gasoline to create heat, which in turn creates torque that drives the vehicle. In an EV, electrical energy from the battery energizes an electric motor that drives the vehicle.
In both cases, replacing an engine or replacing an EV battery pack will be EXPENSIVE! It will set you back thousands of dollars regardless of which type of vehicle you drive (gasoline or diesel powered versus electric). The question then becomes 'Is the cost worth it?"
By the time a vehicle is 10 to 15 years old, or has 150,000 to 200,000 miles plus on the odometer, it is nearing the end of its service life. Vehicles are not built to last forever regardless of why type of drive system they have (electric or internal combustion engine). So when an expensive component such as the engine, automatic transmission or EV battery pack calls it quits, most vehicles have probably depreciated to the point where such major repairs don't make economic sense. Why spend $5000 to $12000 or more for a major repair if the resale or trade-in value of the vehicle is only $4000 to $5000? Replacing the engine or battery pack won't increase your vehicle's value much if at all, so it will likely be a losing proposition to spend the money unless you are planning on driving your old vehicle another 50,000 to 100,000 miles (seriously?).
Maybe you're in love with your old car, truck or SUV, or you think you will save money in the long run by keeping it rolling no matter how much the repair costs add up. Even so, keep in mind the age and condition of your aging vehicle. The brakes, steering, suspension and electronic components have all experienced considerable wear over the years. Maybe the A/C system isn't cooling so great anymore. Maybe the doors or lower body panels are starting to rust or the paint is chipped, discolored or peeling. Maybe some of the electrical accessories such as a power window, power or heated seat, power door lock, sliding side door or liftgate have quit working. Many such problems can cost several hundred dollars to fix even if you can do the repairs yourself. What condition are the seats, door panels, carpets and other interior surfaces in? Are they showing their age? Maybe you don't care what condition these things are in, but your spouse, children or friends may be embarrassed by what you are driving. Because of these things, you are usually better off getting rid of your old vehicle and buying another used or new vehicle when faced with the high cost of replacing an engine, automatic transmission or EV battery pack.
The notion that the high voltage battery packs in EVs are failing at low mileage and cost as much as the car to replace is nonsense. Except for a couple of battery recalls due to manufacturing defects (which cost the vehicle owners ZERO to replace), EV batteries have proven themselves to be very robust with very little degradation in their ability to store electricity even well after 100,000 miles. Most are still showing 90% or better capacity even after 150,000 miles!
The point here is that EV batteries last a long time, maybe even the life of the typical EV. So by the time the remaining battery capacity drops below 80% (which still isn't bad, just less driving range), the economics of replacing it is essentially no different that replacing an engine or automatic transmission in an older high mileage gas or diesel-powered car, truck or SUV.
Some people say that fast charging will decrease battery life, or that not keeping the charge between 20 and 80 percent will doom the battery to premature failure. Neither of those notions holds water when you look at the real world data because they are just not true. EV battery life seems to be pretty much the same regardless of how the battery has been charged (fast or slow) and whether or not it was rarely charged to 100 percent or allowed to drop under 20 percent. Maintenance Matters (or not in the case of an EV!)
The same is NOT necessarily true for internal combustion engines. Unlike EVs that require almost zero maintenance, ICE engines need regular oil and filter changes (at least every 5000 to 7500 miles for the oil). If the vehicle owner neglects regular oil changes, the engine will be doomed to premature failure. The same goes for not checking & maintaining the coolant level, replacing rubber overhead cam timing belts, not repairing any fuel, ignition or emission problems that might damage the engine or affect its long term durability. You don't have any of those issues with an EV.
When you look at actual real world numbers, many new or remanufactured engines cost as much as an EV battery pack depending on the engine, the capacity of the battery pack and the application. It's more of an apples-to-oranges comparison than an apples-to-apples comparison for a variety of reasons.
The performance of a 100 kWh battery pack in a dual motor Tesla Model S is roughly equivalent to the performance of an LS engine in a Corvette (zero to 60 mph in 3.5 to 4 seconds). So when comparing the cost of one power source to the other, equivalent performance should be taken into consideration.
People love to point out that a new battery pack for a Tesla Model S is sooooooo expensive: $14,500 for a refurbished battery to $21,000 for a new 100kWh battery from Tesla. A less expensive alternative would be to swap in a good used battery from a wrecked Tesla Model S, which are often advertised on ebay for $8,000 to $10,000.
By comparison, a Chevrolet Corvette LS3 engine may cost anywhere from $6,500 for a remanufactured basic long block assembly (block & heads but no manifolds or other external parts) to $11,300 for a complete 525 hp complete crate engine (block, heads, intake manifold, fuel & ignition system).
So looking at these numbers, replacing the Chevy V8 would be less expensive than replacing a new battery in a Tesla Model S (depending on which engine and which battery you choose to compare). Keep in mind that both examples do not include the cost of shipping or installation labor.
Try another comparison, like replacing a supercharged Dodge Hellcat Hemi V8 with a new crate engine that costs $21,807. In this case, the Dodge engine is more expensive than the Tesla Model S battery.
Or how about another comparison? Look at the cost of a relatively small and much less expensive EV battery in a Nissan Leaf ($3000 to $4500 depending on the kWh rating) versus a remanufactured nonturbo 4-cylinder engine in a small sedan or compact SUV. The relative costs are about the same.
Engines and battery packs are both quite heavy and expensive to ship. A V8 engine may weigh as little as 350 lbs. (short block only, or lightweight long block) up to nearly 600 lbs. for a complete engine. EV battery packs can weigh 800 to nearly 1400 lbs. depending on their physical size and kWh capacity. This can add several hundred dollars in shipping costs to have an engine or battery trucked to a repair facility. And you’ll need a forklift to unload it.
Labor costs can really add up too! Installation labor for replacing an EV battery pack may range from $2000 to $2500 or more. Most repair shops today charge $125 to $175 per hour for labor.
Costs will vary depending on who is doing the work. New car dealers are the most expensive. Specialty shops may be a little less expensive, while independent repair shops are typically the least expensive. It's very important to make sure the technician doing the work is qualified and experienced to do the job right. Many independent shops have little or no experience working on EVs.
The battery pack is essentially a large rectangular metal box that bolts to the bottom of the car. To replace it, the car is raised on a lift so the old battery can be disconnected, unbolted and lowered on a jack. The old battery is slid out from under the car and the new one is slid into place, raised and bolted and reattached to the car.
Installation labor for replacing an internal combustion engine will vary depending on engine accessibility and how many other things have to be removed to either pull the engine out from the top or drop it out from underneath. Consequently, this usually requires require removing the hood, radiator and bolt-on accessories such as the A/C compressor, power steering pump, belts, hoses, fuel lines, wiring, etc., disconnecting the exhaust system, and/or removing or disconnecting various steering or suspension components to get at the engine from underneath. On some pickup trucks, the entire cab must be unbolted and raised up away from the frame to get at the engine! On a relatively simple application, labor may be as little as $1500 while that on a more complicated job may be $3500 to $4500 or more.
The point here is that the TOTAL cost to replace an internal combustion engine in a car, truck or SUV could be quite a bit more expensive than the TOTAL cost to replace an EV battery, or vice versa. There are so many variables involved that you can't make a flat statement saying one is more or less expensive than the other. It depends.
The cost of an engine will depend on the type of engine (4-cylinder, 6-cylinder or V8), if the engine is naturally aspirated, supercharged or turbocharged, the year, make and model of the vehicle (luxury brands typically cost much more), if the engine is a brand new crate engine, a factory remanufactured engine, an engine rebuilt by a local repair shop or even a used engine.
The quoted cost of a replacement engine will also vary if the engine is complete (block, heads, manifolds, covers, fuel & ignition system) or just a short block (block, pistons & crankshaft only) or a long block assembly (block with cylinder heads maybe with or without valve, timing and oil pan covers).
In general terms, the greater the number of cylinders, the higher the replacement cost of the engine because of the additional parts (more pistons, rings, connecting rods, bearings, valves, etc.).
Also modified engines specially built for high performance or racing can cost considerably more than a "stock" replacement engine. The sky is the limit when it comes to spending big bucks on a performance engine!
Another factor to consider is whether or not the vehicle is still under warranty if the engine or battery pack fails If it is under warranty, there should be little or no cost to replace either one. Free is free.
Comparing internal combustion engines to EVs in terms of warranty, the advantage is EV all the way. Most new car powertrain warranties are 5 years or 50,000 miles, the exception being KIA and Hyundai who stand behind their powertrains for 10 years or 100,000 miles. With most EVs, the standard warranty is 8 years or 100,000 miles.
A few final words on this subject to consider. If you replace an internal combustion engine with a new or reman engine, there is often a core charge of several hundred dollars. You get the core charge back when you give the installer your old engine so it can be rebuilt or used for parts.
The EV market is still relatively new so core charges for old battery packs are whatever the new car dealer says it is. A Tesla dealer may want a $15,000 core charge if you don't trade-in your old battery when it is replaced. Why? Because even used EV batteries are valuable. You can often sell a used Tesla battery online for $8000 to $10,000. The battery pack is made up of individual cells, only some of which may be bad. This allows the battery pack to be disassembled and broken down into its individual components, which can then be tested and reused if still good in a stationary backup wall power unit in a home or business.
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